![]() ![]() ![]() If you’ve tried all these steps and you still have a problem, it’s time to call for help. Does it seem ok, or did it trip again? If the GFCI seems to be working again, check the room again. When it clicks into place, plug the device(s) back in. You may need to use a tool if your finger won’t fit. If you find only one GFCI has tripped but everything else seems okay, push the “reset” button in until it clicks into place. You must check that outlet with an electrical tester. A short at a non-GFCI outlet can cause the GFCI to trip. That’s why it’s good to know what outlets and switches are on a circuit. The non-GFCI outlet at the table may be fine, but the upstream GFCI has tripped and shut off power. If all the outlets are on the same circuit, and the non-GFCI outlets are downstream of the GFCI, they’ll be “dead” or have no power if the GFCI at the counter trips, or if the breaker trips. The outlets at the kitchen counter are GFCIs, and those at the table where you plug your computer in are not. It’s useful to understand how a room is wired so you know which outlets and switches are using the same circuit. Then plug the devices back in and turn them on. Older homes may have fuses if the main electrical panel has not been updated. Also check the breaker panel for tripped breakers. Are any lights not working? Unplug devices from each GFCI outlet and check to see if the “reset” button has popped out. Is just one outlet tripped, or more? Check the room. First, determine the extent of the problem. The challenge is determining if only the outlet is faulty and must be replaced, or if it’s working properly and there is another problem that must be resolved. Anytime you want to test the outlet, push the “test” button if power to the device shuts off, it’s working properly. GFCIs have a “test” button and a “reset” button on the outlet. GFCIs are pretty simple and reliable, but sometimes we do see them fail. These outlets are required in kitchens and bathrooms, rooms where water is usually present. In that case, you may find a GFCI outlet that’s not working.Ī GFCI is a type of electrical outlet that has a built-in breaker that trips (shuts off) when it detects something wrong, such as short or ground fault. Sometimes, though, there’s a glitch-a light won’t turn on, or you can see that your computer is plugged in, but it’s not charging. In our homes and at work, we expect to use electricity without thinking about it, and that’s as it should be. Yes AFCI's and GFCI's coexist nicely as long as the hot and neutral are truly separated.Electricity is a powerful and useful force. ![]() Start with the circuits that have the that wiring in place then finish with the newer circuitry. But looking at those pictures I would say get them now. As more building codes are updated the cost does go down. The 2005 NEC requires them for all bedroom and lighting circuits. But it will help keep you and your family safe until you can do the last step. The breakers only protect you if that happens. I have run into this many times doing favors for neighbors and friends. After the insulator is gone a fire is almost sure to happen. The natural expanding and contracting of a house adds mechanical stresses. The rubber dries out and is degraded with ozone and other atmospheric conditions. That type of wiring has a tendency to crack and cause fires with age. You might want to start adding Arc Fault Circuit Interruptor ( AFCI ) breakers to your breaker box. I've pushed the wires into the holes, tightened the screws, and put a couple wraps of tape around the outlet. Make sure the wires are stripped to the right length- there's a gauge right on the side of the outlet. (And then turn the power off again.) This GFCI outlet has both push-in and screw terminal connectors some old timers (and some new-timers) will only use the screw terminals, but actually, the push-in connectors are more reliable, according to the GFCI makers. ![]() You'll connect that wire, and its white companion, to the LINE connectors. If you can't see the markings on the old outlet, turn the power on briefly, and use your non-contact tester to find the hot wire- that's the one bringing power into the box. Make sure you know which is which- the old outlet will be labeled, as will the new. One set, labeled LINE, is used for power coming in to the box, and the other, labeled LOAD, for outlets that will be "downstream" of the GFCI, and be protected by it. There are two sets of connectors for hot (black) and neutral (white) wires. The ground screw is connected to the ground wires coming and going to the box. Your GFI outlet has five different connectors, and it's important to know which is used for what. ![]()
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